WHEN YOU DEMAND HIGH QUALITY AND ACCURACY, GO WITH........ SPEED CITY !
On these pages you'll see how we create our master models,
so you can see the labor of love that goes into all our products.
Evergreen plastic 1/2" TUBE was used for the Canopy, the tube was cut in
half, and then shaped on an angle and sloped down, to create the point. You
can see the pencil tracings where the blue racing stripes would be located.
This was done to insure a correct location for the canopy and hole for driver.
Now its starting to look like the" MELROSE MISSILE" !
You can also see the tracing for the bullet shaped cowl....... soon to come.
The interior tub & chassis was installed to measure were the dash would
line up with the new cowl.
The headrest was filled in with sheet plastic, the hole for the driver was cut out and New door lines were scribed in.
The rear valance was slightly rolled, and rear 1/4 panels were slightly re-shaped.
My initial plan was to include the rear "AIR FOIL" but, after finding this rare photo (below),
it would have been to hard to do the paint job with the Air Foil on it.....So instead,
I added hinges to be able to mount an aluminum sheet rear foil to the new hinges on a 45 degree angle.
MODEL IS FINISHED !
Mastered by: Ron Ramsey and Scott Kapellusch
has passed the master over to us to rework some issues, such as:
Chassis / Interior tub, Dash, Front frame clip & extra body modifications.
started this Interior tub by using the center of our Speed City Long Nose
Mustang F/C Interior tub.
Ron added some width to all the sides of the Chassis floor with sheet plastic, then added his own door panels.
*Copying a stock '66 Barracuda interior tub*
AMT Wheel wells were installed as well as a new firewall & Trunk shield. He left the clean up to us.
Using these photos as reference....
A Dash was reworked from the amt H.U.G. kit,
and we added a Steering Column Box, to match the Dash of the of the Sox & Martin Cuda.
New frame rails were added to the Chassis in alignment with the Frame Clip from our '65 Gene Snow Rambunctious Dart,
Correct motor mounts were added. Fuel tank mounts will also be added later.
After doing some research
we realized that the AMT kit got the Sail panel on the roof wrong !!!
Here is a stock 1966 barracuda, notice there is no step in the roof Sail panel, but is more of an angle.
THE MASTER IS FINISHED !
is now Available !
ITEM HAS BEEN RE-MASTERED WITH
NEW AWB CHASSIS / INTERIOR TUB,
SQUARE TUBE FRONT FRAME, LEAF SPRINGS & DOOR PANELS.
were things we couldn't do to the original Charlie Allen Dart,
because of all the other models we wanted to build from it.
But since this will be an all new tool,
we want to create an all out correct body..... Such as: Hogging out the front of both front & rear wheel wells,
cutting a hole in the cowl & hood for the injector stacks and scribing a new straight door line for the flip front end.
Using the new chassis from
our '65 Dart AFX, we needed to bring back the rear of the chassis
(to stock wheel base position), and lengthen the front of the chassis.
The tail piece was removed and we added a new section of interior/ chassis floor.
The '65 Dart chassis was stretched by using a'71 Ply Duster 340.
The area for the new motor surround has been cut out in this photo.
Starting with the '65 Dart AFX door panels (shown on top), the chrome trim was
the wheel well area had to be lengthened, as well as some minor trim inserts.
Old door lines were filled in and new door lines had to be scribed.
This Square tube frame was designed from the original frame I built for my personal build up.
Were also adding a set of "Malco Willys Gasser" Rear leaf springs, to use as the front leaf springs on the new frame.
donor is an amt. '71 Plymouth Duster 340 for rear suspension. Any Hemi motor
will do !
3/32" Plastic tube will be needed for the front axle.
MASTER IS FINISHED !
Our goal is to create an all out "Correct" '65 Dodge Coronet A/FXer.
We decided NOT to
use the Polar Lights Coronet because of all the bad reviews it received.
I personally never bothered buying one, hearing it was too toy looking and out of proportion.
Our 1965 Dodge Coronet A/FX will be designed from 2 original amt. bodies !
Don't worry, only one was worth saving, the other will be for patch panels.
entire stock Coronet body was cleaned up of all original defects,
(such as sink holes, Parting lines, A-Pillar problems,Mounting Pins, Etc.)
Then all the trim, moldings & emblems were removed, except the 500 trunk emblem and Rocker Panel Trim.
That was left for alignment for the wheel well alterations.
TAIL LIGHTS & MOLDING
Adding a bead of super glue to all the joints, we now come to the hard part, sanding it all to perfection !
Every amt. Coronet I have ever seen has a factory flaw on the Hood support !
This was filled in with a small piece of sheet plastic.
The Points on the fenders were too sharp and would break very easily, so we created an insert behind the bumper location.
The loops for the bumpers to be attached were also weak,
so we wrapped sheet plastic around them and connected them to the new bumper molding.
SINGLE AND DOUBLE HEADLIGHT GRILLS
Because some cars ran a single headlight grill and some ran a double, we decided to include both grills with our model !
The grill we started
with was too short, so it needed a small strip a plastic all around the edge
of the frame,
then it needed putty to re-form the lip around the sides.
Also you can see were adding Cone Shaped Block out head lights to the single headlight grill,
these headlights had to be re-sized to fit the headlight buckets.
WINDOW & DOOR TRIM
It's not understood
why amt. didn't add window & door trim on their Coronet when it clearly
shows it on the box art for both Ramchargers & Color Me Gone cars.
After reviewing all the '65 Coronet Funny Cars that ran, it was decided that they all had some sort of window or door trim,
or at least they still had the molding that the trim would have been attached to !
The way we plan to do it, you will be able to build any Funny Car car you want, but may need to remove some trim,
depending on the car you decide to build ? But, its easier to remove some trim, rather than add it !
To do the door trim, we started with .020 x .100 evergreen plastic strip, then
2 strips of .010 x .040
(shown in the middle). These were glued side by side leaving a small gap to simulate a weather strip (shown on top).
New Window and Door Trim,
but still needs a little Liquid glue to fill the cracks and some minor sanding.
We also fixed the drip rails on the left side A-pillar that was barely visible on the amt. model.
Starting with our '65 Plymouth
A/FX interior tub (bottom of photo) , the door panels were removed.
Then the door panels from the amt. '65 Coronet were removed from the tub (top of photo).
The arm rests and window cranks were carefully removed.
Holes were drilled for the locations of the arm rests, window cranks.
The door handles were taken from the Ply AFX door panels & glued to the NEW Coronet door panels for more realism.
master is finished and we guarantee it to be the only "CORRECT"
1965 Dodge Coronet A/FX Hardtop ever offered !
can set the height of the front end by adding plastic blocks as "risers"
to the kit suspension,
or use a dropped axle from a Revell '51 Ford Anglia, '51 Henry J, '29 Ford or Custom pick up, kit.
Model is now Available !
Starting with our '65 Plymouth
Sedan AFX, we removed the roof,
but left some body notches in for a better fit. (this also helps for sanding and body strength).
The '65 Dodge Coronet Hardtop ( that was mastered from an original amt Coronet ) roof was removed and the notches
were lined up to the new Sedan roof.
Here is the '65 Plymouth Sedan roof along side the '65 Coronet body.
The new Sedan roof had to be slit down the center and 3 " were removed,
so it can be angled into the front of the 1/4 panel. Here's how all the Pillars fit into the body.
On the real car, notice how the roof has a seam along the trunk & sail panel. Our model will have the same !
MASTER MODEL IS FINISHED !
A piece of sheet plastic will be needed for the patch panel.
Shown on top is the original mpc. Flying Dutchman F/C frame,
the lower frame has been stretched to fit the new Altered Body and a new mount was installed to fit the Radius Rods from a,
"Model King" GTO Funny Car or the Kenz & Leslie Cougar F/C. Either kit can be used and will be needed as a Donor model !
Master is finished !
(with all new Chassis, Interior parts and Correct A/FX factory specs.)
front & rear wheel flares were somewhat washed out, so Evergreen putty was
used to build them up.
The front wheel wells were moved forward by another 3 scale inches. The entire body went through a complete re-surfacing.
I wanted to have a separate grill & front bumper, so one bumper was scraped
to save the grill and One grill was scrapped to save the front bumper.
Of all photos I've seen of these A/FX car's, not one had headlights, but all had cone shaped headlight covers.
Thankfully I have these (Thanks to the "Speed City" AFX PARTS PACK).
The headlights were drilled out and the Cone Shaped "Block-out's" were installed.
Look at a real '65 Plymouth Grill, notice the middle body valance.... under
This was not on the original Johan '65 Ply model kit body, and it wasn't noticeable on the" Grill / bumper part" either.
Count less hours were spent on redesigning the front of the 1/4 panels to perfectly match the new separate grill.
The correct spear molding was not on the original kit, so a little putty & carefully taping & sanding and there it is.
Windshield wipers were removed and the holes were drilled in place !
The cowl vents were really washed out on the original kit, so I cut out a cowl
from a Johan '63 Ply Fury
resin body I had laying around. Hood supports were put in, but I later realized that the hood supports on the cowl
need to be removed so the Lindburg Firewall would fit.
The sail panel trim was also washed out, So on goes the reading glasses and
magnifying lamp for some
" Plastic surgery".
The top window trim was not very noticeable, so plastic 1/2 round was applied and sanded down to match other trim.
You'll also notice that the B-pillars were removed............ ( because they didn't have the proper angle )
The new B-pillars will be done last so they don't brake during all the construction.
The licence plate area was totally incorrect, so one was cut from the same Johan
'63 Ply Fury resin body,
Along with some plastic sheet filler panels.
The molded in Taillight Bezels were also removed as I want to have separate Tail Lights.
The lower spear molding on the trunk was washed out or (sanded off) and was built up with Evergreen putty.
I wanted to make an all new chassis for this kit as the other one didn't have
good detail and the rear
section of the chassis looked too much like a modern pro stock.
With trying to keep a stock '65 Ply chassis look, I started with a Lindburg '64 Dodge 330 Chassis as the
'64 Plymouth's had brake lines and just didn't have the detail as the Dodge had, but there basically the same.
The gas tanks were removed on both chassis' and rear frame rail on the master was removed.
The other chassis lent its trunk section floor pan and both gas tank holes were filled with sheet plastic.
The pieces were glued together, to add length to the new A/FX chassis.
Suspension Risers (shackles) were added to the frame, along with Shock Risers, so the Lindburg Dodge
or Ply. kit suspension parts would have the proper ride height.
Another fine addition, saving you tons of time by not having to add it yourself...... Ya' see, we think about the builder.
After getting some requests for an "Interior tub" with door detail
and personally test fitting the Lindburg door panels to this this int. Floor
It was decided that a new Interior tub would need to be made to save you builder's a lot of frustration !
An old amt funny car chassis gave up its rear wheel wells, to add to our existing floor pan.
This is the new '65 Ply Belvedere A/FX Interior tub
The door panels were reworked from a Lindburg '64 Ply Belvedere and are very close to '65 Ply door panels !
I've since taken out the window cranks after reading the story about the factory built Ply Belvedere A/FXer's.
New motor Mounts were added to the stretched frame, by measuring the displacement
of the original motor mounts on the K-member,
This will keep the motor at stock displacement and height !
To raise the front suspension, you can add pieces of plastic to all location points on frame !
After doing extensive research !!! None of these cars had a stock hood,
So after carefully measuring where the Injectors will come through, the hole in the hood was cut out.
Note: A hood scoop ( if needed ) can be found in the Lindburg '64 Dodge Ramchargers kit .
was made by starting with a Lindburg '64 Ply Dash and adding Plastic Sheet
to fit the '65 Ply Cowl. (photo 3)
A new plastic insert was made to fill in the area from the original kit Instrument Cluster. (photo 1)
New Gauges, Including a Tachometer, Oil Pressure, Temp. & Voltage Meter. (photo 2)
Master model is shown before installation of motor mounts & before hood was cut out.
Body & Chassis are sitting on Lindburg '64 Plymouth / Dodge Suspension and Firewall kit parts.
can set the height of the front end by adding plastic blocks as "risers"
to the kit suspension,
or use a dropped axle from a Revell '51 Ford Anglia, '51 Henry J, '29 Ford or Custom pick up, kit.
This master is finished and I guarantee it is the only correct '65 Ply A/FX Hardtop ever offered !
This NEW '65 Ply A/FX will come with "CORRECT" Body, Hood, Grill, Bumpers, Taillights, Interior Tub, Dash & Chassis.
YOU GET A BIGGER BANG FOR YOUR BUCK " at
Ramsey stopped by to help us with this project,
it was a great time and we had a lot of laughs !
After carefully planning we decided where to make the cuts on a Lindburg '64 Dodge
to be grafted to our '65 Ply Belvedere AFX.
Here is the '64 Dodge Sedan roof being
test fitted to our '65 Ply Belvedere AFX body.
The rear of the '64 Dodge roof needed to be cut down the middle of the window trim & trunk,
so it could be widened to correctly fit the '65 Ply body.
The master is finished and we guarantee it is the only correct '65 Ply Sedan A/FX ever offered !
NEW '65 Ply Sedan A/FX will come with "CORRECT" Body, Hood, Grill, Bumpers, Taillights, Interior Tub, Dash & Chassis.
This was the first Speed City model put into production on July 7 2006.
This master model is getting a new face lift and extra parts with new AWB Chassis, Frame & Interior Tub.
thing was to re-surface the entire body & Hood.
The Inside body of the body was thinned.
A rear trim molding was added to the top of the rear fender...........................We couldn't do this to the
original, as it would have been to hard to remove it for all the other Dodge Darts we planned on doing !
64 pieces of Evergreen & Plastruct plastic sheet, half round, strip and tube were used to complete this new chassis !
Starting with an amt/ertl '71 Plymouth Duster 340, The gas tank was removed
& all holes filled.
21 scale inches were removed from the floor pan, the chassis was then super glued back together.
and an extension was built to the trunk section to fill the gap.
Starting with a '66 Barracuda firewall, The side panels & holes for the
hood brackets were filled in.
all wires were sanded off, but the master cylinder, water heater housing,
ground bolt & electronics box were left on, which gives the firewall some nice detail !
Check out how nice this new chassis looks, Even better than
my original chassis I built for my personal model !
The '71 Duster rear end & suspension will fit, or you can create your own from the parts box ?
As you can see by the photos here, every Dart funny car had differences
* Long nose/Short nose,Wheelbase,Stock bumper/ Cut bumper, Etc,Etc*
It took several days just to come up with an idea to make one Body, Chassis & Interior Tub to do any version
of the'66 Dart F/C bodies.
It took several months to do all the research, Design & Painstaking Labor !
You will need to make some alterations to do any individual car. Though with this set up, Any individual car can be done.
2- rear 1/4 patch panels will be supplied to do the rear wheel alterations ( if needed) some ran stock location wheel wells.
We will also add a printable instruction sheet to make the "shorter front clip" cars, (most are shown on the second row).
Extreme amounts of time were put into research and designing this model to make sure it will be as accurate as possible.
Our '66 Semi-Stretched
LANDY DART was taped off to cut 6 scale inches ahead of its already 6" stretch,
giving the front clip the correct factory fiberglass one foot stretch !
Our '66 LANDY DART ( front clip) cut off and our '66 Stock Dodge Dart ( body in back ground ).
The '66 Stock Dart body needed to have several alterations done before we could mate the two bodies together,
including new door handles.
Saving the floor from the "HAIRY CANARY"
( because of its enlarged tranny tunnel ) & using the interior sides
& package tray from a '66 STOCK DART , the two were mated together along with a large engine housing ( in green plastic).
The '66 Dart stock interior had all its arm rest's,
door handles & window cranks removed.
*saving the top of the door moldings*
New correct door handles were installed, along with kick plates.
New sheet was added for firewall, angled flat dash and rear seat area.
Here you can see how any displacement of front and rear wheels
can be archived,
second frame brace can be used when body is cut back one scale foot (a full scale half inch ).
Motor mounts can also be moved if needed ? (notice patch panels to do rear wheel well alterations.
MASTER IS FINISHED
This new resin
kit will come with the only "CORRECT" '66 Dodge Dart Funny Car Body,
Chassis, Interior tub,
Front grill, Bumpers, Taillights & Two ( left & Right ) 1/4 Patch panels.
We built the model around a Revell Tommy Ivo Showboat chassis.................to be used as a donor kit.
Although not a totally accurate chassis, it is a chassis to work with or to work from, if designing a correct chassis.
After the new rocker panels were in place, the rear wheel
wells were cut forward and the front clip was removed.
All door lines were filler with Ever coat putty & a "NEW" rear wheel well lip was formed, creating a wider wheel well.
SO HERES WHERE IT WENT WRONG........... after looking at the body , it still looked Too wide.
Calling Gary Weckesser, he informed me that the body was 18 inches thinner (not 14").
So Its back to re-taping and removing another 4 inches from the length..... AGAIN.
If it wasn't extremely painful the first time, it was a real kick in the pants the 2nd time around.
But I'm a perfectionist, and if it's not right............ IT'S WRONG.
Door handles from a Revell Ford Thunderbolt were glued to the body and a
.010" was glued to the center of the door handle making them "SEMI-HOLLOW DOOR HANDLES".
The center of the door handles can be punched out making them completely hollow.
The front clip took so much thought, planning and work I
didn't have the time to do all the
"In Progress" shots. Rather than give you a lengthily detailed list of all the labor done, I'll just let the pictures do the talking.
The front and rear bumpers were altered at this time too.
Using a Revell Tommy Ivo Showboat 4 engine dragster model kit as a donor, we
had a major dilemma ?
The SHOIWBOAT has 4 Buick engines, but the MACH IV has 4 Ford engines.
It would be very costly for a builder to go out and purchase 4 Ford model kits to rob the engines from and it wouldn't be cost effective for us to cast an additional 4 ford engines to go with this kit, so we created a Ford 1-piece "HEAD, VALVE COVER & INJECTOR MANIFOLD" set-up.
The Injection Ports were robbed from the Monogram BEER WAGON and plastic round tube will aid in adding our Injection Stacks.
We will make a mold of this one master, cast 7 others and then make a mold of all 8 (shown in last photo).
These Heads can be added to the buick engine blocks, It's not 100% correct, but it works ...............
I felt It was necessary to
make frame extensions, to accommodate the longer Mustang body.....
sounds easy right ? ........ NOT AT ALL !
This was the most aggravating part of the project and took 3 attempts before it all fit perfectly !
The Rear axle had to fit correctly so the frame would sit level, while at the same time
the holes for the hinges needed to make the body have the correct ride height and correct body displacement.
WE REALLY NEED TO MAKE THE FRAME EXTENSIONS.....NO,
but I am first & foremost a Model Builder and this is what makes "SPEED CITY" stand out from the rest.
WE CARE ABOUT THE BUILDER AND KEEP THAT IN MIND WHEN DOING A PROJECT.
Were not out to make a quick buck, We're out to design the best product on the market !
This shows the body on its
pivots so the body can be raised.
Rocker panels can be mounted using cut pieces of a paper clip and gluing to the frame.
Finally I made the 2 side rocker panels from 6 small sheets of .080" plastic sheet, Shaped and cut to size (no photo).
we only Have these photos, they were taken before we created the "IN PROGRESS" page.
Originally I was only going to do the Funny Car version,
but I got some interest from others to do a full stock version as well.
TRUNK, BUMPER & TAILLIGHTS
Starting with a vintage 1966 Buick model, The interior of the body was cleaned up of all it's mess.
The back of the bumper and the tops of the 1/4 panels and trunk was filled in with putty, since all these parts will need to be reshaped.
Here you can see the original '66 Buick bumper assembly.
After making the tail light bezels to fit, 2 pieces of .010" round was used between the 2 red lenses'.
The rear bumper was re-shaped and .020" sheet was used top create a step in the bumper.
The 1966 license plate was removed and new directional's were cut into the .020" sheet.
The sheet was then super glued to the bumper.
The top of the trunk had new chrome trim added by using H.O. scale train lap siding for scale houses.
The tail lights were then glued to the bumper.
'67 BUICK GRILL
The '66 Buick hood was glued to the body and back filled with plastic.
Yes, it would have been nice to have a separate hood, but I'm mainly building this model to be used as the Funny Car version and.....
It will make all the hood alterations to be easier.
All the detail on the '66 Buick hood was removed and a piece of .020" sheet was used to create the lift in the center of the hood that is needed
to make this into a '67 Buick hood.
After spending 3 days on trying to come up with a part I could use to make the side vents,
I decided to use a part of a Ford Thunderbolt grill. Then plastic strip was added to the sides to make it look like it is incased.
WHEEL WELL TRIM
The '66 Buick Dash board was altered to better resemble a '67 Buick.
All rights reserved. Do not copy any Speed City Resin bodies or parts without permission and consent.