On these pages you'll see how we create our master models,
so you can see the labor of love that goes into all our products.
We wet sand & polish all our master models, so no imperfections
can be left.
You will find no sink holes, parting lines, waves, dips or any other imperfections that are found
on every plastic kit model. Because of that, our resin bodies are better than plastic kit models !
As with all resin parts, you will need to clean up flashing around each resin part.
The First Gear die cast model can not be built as a '65 Econoline, because it doesn't have the side molding (that only came on a '65 model) !
It will be nice to have this model in resin as the die cast body is extremely heavy.
After spending 5 days trying to strip the paint (I believe it's powder coating), the "Cab Divider Plate" was cut from the body.
It will be easier to cast this body without the divider plate. But, I will need another die cast body to have a separate divider plate as this one will be trashed.
A window recess is necessary for the Back Up Pick Up Wheel Stander.
You'll need to remove this recess if using the First Gear windshield (for the stock version).
If you want the windshield to be correct for the stock version, you will need use plastic sheet for the windshield and
add black pin stripe tape for the weather striping.
Check out the "MODEL NEWS" page for instructions on how to make window glass.
Here's where it gets difficult and what will make this model be a '65 Econoline.
The center section of the side mouldings were created with H.O. scale siding plastic sheet, cut to size and sanded to perfection.
The H.O. siding is .040". It had to be sanded down to .020" thick.
Lines were scribed on the body to make these mouldings lay straight.
An engraver cutting tool was used on the body where the side mouldings are being mounted to (as plastic doesn't glue well to metal).
.030 strip is used for the chrome mouldings around the center section. This whole process took 5 days!
A good friend (Jim Polli) bought a First Gear Die Cast Econoline and sent me his metal body to work from,
as he will be using our resin '65 Econoline body when it's finished.
I'm going to make the "Divider Plate" (between the cab and bed) be a separate piece!
To get a good divider plate, I will need to trash the body.
After cutting out the Divider Plate from the body, the plate was stripped and the sides (left fron the body thickness) were ground away.
All imperfections were cleaned up and holes were all filled.
No model company ever made a Ford 427 fuel injection set up (or) Ford 427 M/T Valve Covers.
After reviewing all the Ford 427 intake manifolds, the best one to start this project is the Revell Ford Thunderbolt Intake Manifold.
After de-chroming the intake, it was sanded down to remove the carburetor bodies.
All the holes were filled. Half round and flat strip was added between the intake tubes.
Throttle bodies were drilled all the way through and .030" was used for the throttle rod plugs.
The top of each throttle body has mounting plates for the stacks to be mounted to. These were made by using a punch and .020" sheet plastic.
Cooling fins were added to the center of the manifold. Each mounting plate was then drilled to have .080" tube to be used as guides for the injection stacks.
6- Photo etch nuts & bolts were added to the manifold.
16- .020"photo etch bolt heads were added to each mounting plate.
The hole in the bottom of the manifold was filled with putty.
It took 94 changes to the Thunderbolt intake to make this new Ford 427 Injection Manifold.
M/T FORD 427 VALVE COVERS
Since no kit ever made M/T Ford 427 Valve Covers, I'll need to make these too.
To start this project, I'll be using our Speed City Resin "Big Block Chevy M/T Valve Covers".
Both sides were shortened. The top's and bottom's were also shortened.
The bottom lip with the bolt heads was removed and the valve cover was sanded down to make even smaller.
Since the bolt pattern is different on Ford Valve covers, half round was used to back fill all the Chevy bolt hole indents.
The top plug between the fins were removed on both V. Covers and had to be back filled with ultra tiny pieces of plastic for the cooling fins.
All the lines between the fins were deepened.
No aftermarket or model company has ever made 16" Cragar *Shallow Dish* Mag Wheels.
Since most drag cars ran 16" mag wheels, I'm going to create them in 1/25 scale.
Comes with S/S Cragar Center Caps and a mounting stub for an axle.
Our Speed City *Shallow Dish* "INNER RIMS" will be needed for these mags.
Comes with S/S Cragar Center Caps and a mounting stub for an axle.
Our Speed City *Deep Dish* "INNER RIMS" will be needed for these mags.
Notice how far the block extends forward (for the timing chain and distributor).... You don't see that on any 1/25 scale Hemi engine.
That's why it's so hard to mount a distributor on almost every model kit Hemi.
After much deliberation on which Hemi engine to start with?
The Revell 70's Funny Car- Block, Heads & Blower Manifold seems to have the best potential to make an accurate 426 Hemi.
The top, bottom and Transmission area's of the block were all filled with sheet plastic.
The Revell's front block protrusion was removed and a "Timing Cover" from our Speed City Resin "AFX PARTS PACK" was glued in place.
The "TIMING COVER" then had all it's face detail removed.
To make all the Water Ports, several sizes of round and 1/2 round tube are used, along with making the Oil Filter port detail,
Distributor port detail and Water Inlet Cap (for radiator hose) on the side of the block protrusion.
The frame rail mounts were cut off a Revell "Stone, Wood's & Cook" Willys Gasser frame to be used as new "Motor Mounts".
The holes were filled to resemble bolt heads.
Water Inlet "Block Off Plates" were added and water line protrusions on the front of the block were made from .030" 1/2 round tube.
A Transmission mount was cut from plastic sheet and 3 angled pieces were added to the top of the rear of the block (not shown in this photo).
12- Pro-Tech photo-etched Nuts & Bolt heads were applied, as well as an R-B Motion washer for the distributor location mount.
The reason I started with the Speed City Resin "Timing Cover",
is that It fits the bolt pattern from the MPC Ramchargers Dragster Timing Cover; (that has been altered with round tubes), for the fuel pump and balancer.
The top's and bottom's of the heads were filled in. The sides were re-angled (to make sure it fits our Hemi Hilborn Injection Manifold).
Water port detail was added with 1/2 round tube. The weird V-shaped plugs on the (front and rear) of the Revell heads were drilled out, reshaped and
.040" plastic tube was inserted, and the top's were back-filled to make it resemble freeze plugs.
16 changes were made to make the heads to make it look more realistic.
Even though the Revell manifold came with a Burst Plate (with springs),
I found that the 1320 die cast dragster had a much more detailed Burst Plate and it looked very close to the 1:1 Cragar Burst Plate.
So, the die cast dragster was pulled apart and the Burst Plate was removed and grafted to the new manifold.
Extra detail was added with plastic strip & round tube and was then topped off with a photo-etch Bolt Head.
14 extra parts were used to create this new Cragar Blower Manifold and 5 days were spent making it.
Rear of the block- Here you see the 3 angled pieces that were added to the top rear of the block.
After this photo was taken I realized that the block wasn't long enough for the right side of head, so it was lengthened with plastic sheet.
The most accurate "Blower Case" is in the Revell "Miss Deal" Funny Car & the Revell Stone, Woods & Cook Willys Gasser.
It seems to have the right size and shape. But, I've noticed that the right side of the Revell blower case is always messed up (shown on the right side).
I found another Revell Blower Block (yellow) and the two left sides were meshed together to make a better solid block.
I capped off all the holes and added some top ribs for the intake using .010 x .020" strip.
There is no Bolt detail on the Revell Blower case sides, so photo-etch Bolt Heads were added.
The rear Bearing Plate is from my parts box as it had the best detail.
The front Drive Plate back side was filled in with putty and a separation line was scribed in around the plate.
MASTER IS FINISHED !
After careful deliberation on which body to start with,
it was decided to start this project with our '67-'68 Barracuda Funny Car resin body.
Since this body has already been perfected including, removing all body trim, emblems, wiper blades,
filled cowl vents, corrected front & rear valance's, window chrome trim removed, window recess' installed
and the entire body sanded & polished to perfection....... It should be a great candidate to start with.
(To see all the work that was done to the '67-'68 Barracuda Funny Car, visit the "IN PROGRESS" page 3)
The front wheel wells need to be in stock location and our '67-68 Barracuda F/C resin body has altered front
wheel wells. To get the front wheel wells back to stock position, an MPC '69 Barracuda body was used.... since I'm out of
spare resin '68 Cuda bodies.
To make the radiused wheel wells....
Our Speed City M&H Racemaster 16" slicks were used as a guide to figure out the correct radius.
The wheel wells needed to be bigger than normal because there needs to be a plastic strip to create an even lip & inner surface for the fender flares.
030" plastic sheet was used. A round tube was used for sanding the circumference and to keep the wheel wells aligned evenly.
The new stock hood was glued to the Funny Car body and now has better looking louver bottoms.
The hood lines needed to be re cut into the Super Glue. You can also see the new rear fender flares in this photo.
The Speed City Resin '67-'68 Barracuda Funny Car body has no marker lights and the Fred Hurst Gasser
has them. After looking at a '68 stock Barracuda Fastback marker lights, it was decided to make new ones from scratch,
since the stock marker lights were so faint, they would most likely disappear after primer & paint.
Plastruct 3/32" Hollow Tube was used to make the marker light chrome ring bezels.
The new front clip was prescribed to have correct hood lines and hood was pre cut for the injection stacks.
I'm keeping the body as a 1-piece body, so you will need to scribe out the front clip if you want to build a version with a
flip front end. I don't want to make the body & front clip separate because of this.... If we cast these 2 pieces separately,
the body & clip will not line up correctly due to the fact of using rubber molds, and the body will drift from it's original position.
Once you scribe the front clip from the body, they will have a perfect fit !
GRILLS & BUMPER
Since the front clip was fiber glass, there were no grills.
Instead, it had smooth fiber glass block outs and then painted to look like grill mesh.
To be legal in the gasser class, the car had to have head lights. The grill mesh will need to be made in decal form.
Whoopie Kat will be making the decals for this car.
Thankfully, I already made the grill block outs from our Speed City '67-68 Barracuda Funny car,
but the block outs had to have .010" strip glued all around the sides for a closer fit and very little putty will be used.
I had no luck finding head lights that would fit the Barracuda grill block outs correctly,
so I'm using 1/4" tube for the bezels. The tube still had to be hollowed out more to create a thinner lip on the head light bezels.
The tube was also made to be a pressure fit so no gaps will be seen between the bezel and grill...... Extremely time consuming !
Here's the block outs with bezels installed and the new head light covers that will be going in.
The backs of the head lights were primed to see better when installing and they had to be made to be smaller in diameter.
Head lights put in and final grill block outs installed using 5 min. epoxy, so they could be adjusted properly.
Glazing putty was used around the seams between the grills
The bumper molding on the body was sanded down to make the front bumper come closer to the body.
This Fred Hurst '67 Barracuda interior shot shows that the door panels will need to be custom made
nothing even comes close to this. There's a lot of padding and "tuck 'n' roll" on this interior tub.
Starting with an MPC '69 Barracuda interior tub, the tub needed to be corrected as it didn't seat to the
body right. Plastic sheet and putty was used to create a more rounded effect in the trunk area.
The holes (for the roll bars) were also filled.
The floor was cut out and the trunk was filled in to create a flat surface, this will help for the new chassis design.
The bottom of the wheel well humps and missing door panels were back filled with sheet plastic.
The door panel detail was all removed. Door lines were marked on the outside of the interior tub.
The B&M shifter box cover, brake & clutch pedal plates and floor mat were added to the floor.
The oil pressure, tach and water gauges were cut from parts box items and sanded down to scale so only the lip of the
gauges will show and then mounted to the firewall.
To start the door panels, the top of the interior door was made with 2 different size strips of sheet plastic.
.060" 1/2 round tubes were glued to the middle of the door to make the tuck 'n' roll padding.
4 pieces of sheet plastic were individually cut & shaped for each section.
To make it look like the buttons that are pulling the padding in, it was counter sunk for each button hole.
.020" bolt heads from Pro-Tech was glued to the center of each counter sink, then polished to be a round head.
A divider padding (behind the door) was cut to shape and the other 3 pieces of tuck 'n' roll 1/2 round are ready to be added.
Starting with a Revell Stone, Woods & Cook Willys chassis......
The rear of the frame needs to be kicked up (to lower the car).
So, the rear of the frame was cut off and .080 X .156" strip was used to make the new Z' ed frame rails.
The middle frame cross member with rear shock mounts, was cut from the Revell frame & relocated higher on the new frame.
A strip of plastic was then glued to the front of the chassis to hold the distance between frame rails before cutting off the
radiator and fuel tank mounts.
The radiator and fuel tank mounts were
re-designed and re- located.
Many other unnecessary details and holes were either removed or filled.
I need to simplify the frame rails (for casting purpose's) so that the top of the rails are smooth with no disturbing details,
for better results in the molding process.
Here's how the new frame rails will fit on the interior tub.
Surprisingly, the motor mounts are in the correct area and will not need to be relocated.
I put a frame cross member half way to the end of the interior tub so, when you add a trunk floor, you won't see the seam.
You can also add sheet plastic to the sides of the interior tub to seal in the trunk area.
The Revell "Stone, Woods & Cook Willys" suspension parts, engine & tranny can still be used as the donor model.
Since this Fred Hurst Barracuda needs front Torque Thrust Spindle Mount Mag Wheels,
I'll be creating those too, along with our signature Inner Rims.
This will be an all new accurate master !Johan made an attempt at doing Spindle Mount mags and they're okay,
1. (On the left) The Polar Lights F/C attempt at making Torque Thrust "Spindle Mounts", but again, they're not shaped right.
Also, the spokes are too thick and they have a gritty rough texture to them. I can't see using these on any build !
2. (On top) The rare AMT "Cougar Country" 777 Funny Car has some better looking Torque Thrust "Spindle Mounts",
but the spokes are too thick and the Axle Hub is too big in diameter.
They just don't look like Gasser/Funny Car "Spindle Mounts", but would be better suited for street machine wheels.
It looks like AMT tried to make the mags deeper to fit the over sized funny car tires in the kit.
3. (Bottom) I used a second set of AMT Cougar Country F/C mag wheels I had and cut the axle hub off the back and sanded
down the back side of the mags..... This in turn, made the spokes skinnier and thinner.
Since the new axle hubs will be smaller than any other standard axle hub,
I had to use an aluminum tube and a hollow plastic tube inserted into the aluminum tube to fit a metal axle.
But, that hole can be bored out if necessary.
Unlike the previous attempt of a Bronco Buster (eBay resin body) and now Comp. Resin.
Our model is going to be extremely accurate and will come with all chassis and extra parts needed to build a correct model !
Started - 11/26/2016
2 - Revell Bronco kits will be needed to turn it into a Long Nose Funny Car.
A second body will be needed to do the stretched fenders & hood alterations.
First, to get ready for a 1/2 cab roof, the tops of the door panels need to be filled in with .040 x .060 plastic strip.
The windshield frame doesn't have any chrome moldings as the moldings are in the glass and since this Funny Car doesn't
have window glass, the moldings need to be added using .030 x .040" plastic strip.
The front of both roofs had to be evenly cut.
I got the correct 1:1 measurements (from drip rail to drip rail), to get the correct distance of the 1/2 cab roof.
Now that I have the roof situation basically resolved, I want to alter the body before adding the 1/2 cab roof,
as it will be a lot of strain to the roof and it might break off during construction. So, I'm taking a break on the roof for now.
A stock Bronco has a 92" wheelbase.
The Bronco Buster had a 112" wheelbase, but the wheels are not centered in the wheel wells, so I mocked up where the wheels will sit in the body.
(the rear wheels sit 2" further back from center and the front wheels sit 3" forward from center).
After careful measuring, the body needs to be stretched 15 scale inches !
The rear part of the body on the right will be used as the "master body" and the front clip of the body on the left will be used for the "master front clip".
The bodies with an X on them will be scrapped.
Before making the cuts, The rear master body and front master body panels were cleaned up of all unnecessary emblems.
Holes and imperfections were filled. Marker lights and engine surround were then removed from the front clip.
I'm leaving the belt line chrome trim on, to make sure the body keeps straight when grafting the two body parts together.
The new "Long Nose" fenders have been added to the body.
There was only one cut line made, the other line is from the door panel filled with super glue.
The cut line was backed up by a strip of plastic inside the body.
The belt line along the body was missing after removing the chrome side trim, so putty was used to create a new belt line.
Going back to the roof......
The windshield was added using the original "wagon roof" as a guide to set the correct angle.
The sail panels will be made using part of the B-pillar from the wagon roof and the rear roof section will be used as the rear
of the sail panel. The angle on the 1/2 cab sail panel has a different angle than the wagon roof, so the angle will need to be corrected.
The sail panel on the 1:1 car has a wrap around to it.
The bottom of the window hatch will be the perfect piece to use as it has a rounded edge and even has a slight lip
to the inside edge, which is on the 1:1 Half Roof.
Here's where it gets complicated.
Before finishing the body, I want to start the chassis (since the bed cover & hood is not on the body yet).
I can make building the chassis easier this way and make alterations as the chassis will be more accessible.
Before starting the chassis, I need to do a mock up to set the wheel base frame height & frame width.
To start all of this, I'll need to build a rear end set up using our Speed City - Ford 9" rear end, disk brakes (from our Funny Car
Parts Pack), Halibrand 15" Mag Wheels, Inner Rims (Deep Dish) and AMT Goodyear Blue Streak 9:00 x 15" Slicks (found in
older AMT kits). To set the front suspension, I'm using an 18" 12 spoke mag wheel, a dragster tire and coil over shocks from
the Revell Ford Thunderbolt kit to get the correct height of the frame.
After studying photos I set the frame rails where they need to be.
I decided not to take photos of every step of making these as it would have been too many photos to take.
Originally I started with the Revell "Miss Deal" rear Ladder Bars, but it was altered so much that only 3 parts of the rails remained.
10 separate pieces of plastic were used to make each ladder bar. After spending 4 days on trying to come up with
an easy solution for a rear suspension, here's what I came up with.
UPDATE: Some new changes were made to the Ladder Bars as I didn't like the way they were fitting, and they were too close to the slicks.
I moved the coil springs 2" closer to the frame, 2" higher and 1" closer to the rear end by adding a new shock mount and shock ring (from aluminum tube).
I need to keep the bottoms of the shock mounts thick due to casting reasons (but, that can be sanded down).
The pressure fittings on the tips of the Ladder Bars were made from punching out .010" sheet plastic, to be used as a washer,
then drilling through the center of the washer and adding an aluminum tube through the hole.
The cheater blocks were also shortened. 13 separate pieces of plastic & metal were used to make each ladder bar.
New updated Ladder Bar Suspension !
It's taken 7 days labor (about 46 hours) to make these parts work on the frame rails to set the rear suspension, but it will save
a lot of time and frustration for all you builders that have been waiting to build a "correct" Bronco Buster Funny Car !
The entire build rest's on these Ladder Bars and will be the key component to building your model.
.050 x .156" plastic strip will be used as the Frame Rails.
The front Shock Towers were made from 2 strips of .080 X .156" stacked, glued and shaped.
The Shock Mounts were cut from the Revell Bronco frame and glued to the Shock towers.
Before starting the chassis, I first had to make sure that the front Shock Mounts will fit the Revell "Ford
Thunderbolt" coil over shocks that are being used on this Straight Tube Axle.
Using an old resin 18" 12 spoke mag wheel and some Goodyear Dragster Tires. "QUAKE HOLD" museum putty was used to
temporarily hold the shock to where the center of the tube axle will be. Since I don't have accurate dimensions on the chassis
width. I went by photos, and what made sense for the tread width.
After finding the correct 112" wheelbase, the holes in Ladder Bars were drilled through the frame rails and a .062" round tube will be used as locator pins.
I set the Radius Rod Bracket by using a set of Polar Lights Funny Car Radius Rods.
Pre-drilled the holes and then backed it up with the same frame square tube to make it as wide as the frame.
I have to simplify these brackets and make them thicker due to casting reasons.
Using an AMT '67 Mustang 289 Ford small block engine to set the motor mounts,
I cut the motor mounts off an AMT Hogan's Hero's Jeep. Plastic sheet was used to build up the bottom of the motor mounts
to make them thicker. The Transmission mount was made from drawing out a stencil of what the tranny mount looked like
and re-shaping it to fit the angle of the engine to meet the rear end.
Also: The Radius Rods bracket was removed, since I thought it was a waste of using a Polar Lights F/C/ kit just for the
radius rods. The Revell '27 'T' Roadster will be the donor for the radius rods and it already has brackets on the rods.
There's not much for the body to rest on since there is no interior tub.
The goal here is to make the cowl rest on the firewall to hold up the front of the body
This will be essential, especially if your planning to make the body flip up, then the cowl will need to fall back down and rest
on the firewall to hold up the front of the body.
To make the cowl level, a temporary piece of 040" sheet was used.
.020" sheet will be needed for the top of the interior tin on your build.
To make the interior tin.... fit a piece of .020" sheet inside the body, glue the cowl to the sheet and remove the
center section (where the driver sits).
After many hours of test fitting, so that the cowl will rest on the firewall and the transmission will fit through the
firewall, .040" sheet was measured and cut to fit the inner frame rails. Then .080" rod was glued around the sides of the firewall.
To make the Gas & Brake pedal boxes, I'm starting off with 2 battery's from the Johan Chrysler Turbine Car,
since they were the thinnest wall battery's I could find.
The 289 engine had to be mocked up in the chassis to make sure the gas & brake pedal boxes will clear the valve covers.
In my haste to get this finished by the end of the night.....
I thought that both boxes had the same chopped angle on the bottom (but, I was wrong) and paid the price to make it right as
I had to fix the flaw with 4 pieces of .040" sheet plastic.
To make the instrument panel, I'm starting by using a "gauge cluster box" from our Speed City '66 Long Nose Barracuda Funny Car and cutting off 2 of the gauges to be mounted to a .040" sheet as a base.
I masked off the firewall to spray primer inside the boxes to check for imperfections, but didn't want primer on
the middle part of the firewall. The Gauges were glued on and 3- power switches were made from .010 x .030".
The switch bases and the switch covers were made with .010" x .020".
A starter button was added using a water cap cut from one of the Johan battery's.
BACK TO THE BODY
The main hood was bent back and sanded flat to make even at the rear for the other half of the hood,
so they will match when fitted together.The vents on the Revell Bronco hood are hollow, but for the Funny Car version,
they need to be back filled with plastic pieces. To make the bed cover, .040" sheet was used.
All the seams on both hoods have been filled with super glue & sanded to perfection.
To start making the hood scoop, I first need to figure out if the injector stacks will fit through the hood scoop?
LOOKING FORWARD... I also need to make a "Ford (small block) Injection Manifold & Timing Cover".
Since no model company ever offered one, I'll need to scratch build that too !
I started the base of the Ford (small block) Injection Manifold using plastic strips & sheet to fit on a Amt/Ertl 1967 Mustang GT
289 Ford small block engine. I now have a basic idea of how wide to make the hood scoop.
(I'll get back to making the "Ford 289 small block Inj. manifold" later)
I thought of using brass or aluminum sheet for the hood scoop, but it would be difficult to make a hole in the hood and then
try to fit a metal scoop into the hole. It just sounds messy.
I'm making the scoop from a bottom of a Sprint Car belly pan, cut in half, thinned and shaped to look like the B.B. scoop.
After consideration of having separate taillights or mounting them to the body ?
I decided to keep the taillights on the body !
The Tail Lights can be lightly masked off with Bare-Metal Foil when Priming & painting and then re-foiled after painting.
BUMPERS & GRIL
The Bronco Buster ran with 2 different style bumpers.
The early 1966 version (with the Halibrand rears mags) mainly used a "Big Bumper"
Although the early version did change to a standard bumper later in the year (center photo).
The standard bumper was always on the 1967 version (with the Cragar rear mags).
The early version "Big Bumper" was made using 2 bumpers glued together and the center sanded smooth.
Both bumpers were shortened on both ends.
The clear marker lights for the grill didn't sit right and didn't look like the fiber glass versions, so .010x .080" strip was glued
over the tops of the marker light holes. The clear head light lens's were glued in to resemble the fiber glass grill on the B.B.
Finished - 4/20/2017
The master is finished !
I personally guarantee this to be the only correct Bronco Buster ever made !
I still have the issue about making a Ford (small block) Inj. manifold-
Timing Cover & new 6" Stacks that are needed for the Bronco Buster.
Also: A new correct set of 18" 12 Spoke Mag Wheels will be coming soon.
Injection Manifold - Timing Cover - New 2x6" stacks
ALSO: New 2" diameter x 6" tall stacks (in scale) will need to be designed to fit this new Injection manifold.
No model company ever made a 1/25 Ford small block injection manifold or timing cover.
Since our new Bronco Buster Funny Car need's them, they will have to be created.
Ford Small Block Injection Manifold
.080" hollow round tubes were individually cut to fit the angle of the base.
I thought of drilling the tubes through the base, but the base is too fragile.
By adding them to the top of the manifold, I can better control how the tubes will line up.
Ford Small Block Timing Cover
Ford Small Block 6" Injection Stacks
We had to special order new stacks for this Small Block Injection Manifold.
These new stacks have a 2" diameter x 6" tall (in 1/25 scale).
These new stacks have a bigger diameter than our other 6" stacks we sell for the Buick Nail Head Engine.
Our goal is to create the only accurate 18" 12 spokes ever made !
Starting with The Mag Wheels from an Ed Roth "Mysterion", as the rims are 18" in diameter-
and they have correct 2 step rims. The chrome was stripped and the dish was removed on both wheels.
The rims were then sanded and polished smooth.
(Middle) First, the chrome was striped off the "Boot Hill Express" inner & outer wheel.
The back side of the Boot Hill spokes are flat, so every spoke was thinned down and rounded with a jewelers file.
The space between each spoke had to come in closer to the center hub on the outer rim.
The large holes on the back side of the Inner & outer hubs were filled and new holes were drilled to fit a standard axle.
(Bottom) Each spoke was cut from the Boot Hill wheels and carefully sanded down to pressure fit the Mysterion ring.
The dust cap was removed and the washer was sanded down just before the spokes.
The spokes were re- thinned again and oval shaped. The center hub was sanded down even closer.
A washer was made with .010" sheet using a punch. To make the dust cap, .062" rod was used, but was rounded and
polished before installation.
The spokes were mated to the rims.
Then a small bead of super glue was added to the bottom of all the spokes and polished out.
Finally, the Boot Hill valve stem was removed and added to the new rim (on the correct left side of the spoke).
These 2 wheels shown are a "front & back" for only one tire.
A casting will need to be made from these 2 wheels and then a new mold will be made for several sets later.
You can see that the Boot Hill Express wheel & the competitors resin wheel, has the valve stem on the wrong
side. Also, the competitor's resin wheel doesn't have an angle to the spokes (they lay flat) and only has a solid ring for a rim.
After making a mold of the master 2-piece Inner & Outer wheels,
A bunch of mag wheels were cast and then cleaned up of all flash to make a single multi-piece mold.
10 mag wheels had to be cleaned up to be used as masters.
We'll finally have correct 18" 12 spoke mag wheels in 1/25 scale.
I've been wanting to do a driver figure for many years now !
Although there has been many driver figures made, I haven't found one that looks accurate to scale
and it would be too hard to make any one of those figures fit into any style seat.
The plan here is to create the most accurate looking driver figure ever made and make it possible to fit all seat's.
With two sets of arms - * bent and extended *
Though there were many types of fire suits made, Deist, Bell, Ansen, etc.
This figure will be based on a '60's-'70's Simpson Fire Suit and Mask.
Going through the box of driver figures saved over the years, the best pieces were picked out of the lot.
The head is from the MPC Blue Max Mustang Funny Car, as it had the best "full face mask" 1/25 scale head.
The torso and legs from a Monogram 1/24 sprint car figure and some nice looking parts box extended arms.
The left hip needed to be wider to sit in the seat straight, so .080" plastic was added to that side of the leg.
The pants from the 1/24 sprint car driver has elastic at the bottom and since this Funny Car figure
needs boots, .010" sheet was used to wrap around his leg to resemble a boot (shown on the left).
Liquid cement was heavily applied, so the plastic would melt to fit the leg indentations.
These legs will go through a long process of making them look more correct later.
The right arm has the correct angle, but the left arm doesn't meet the steering wheel properly.
So the left arm was cut in the elbow to bring it to the same angle as the right arm.
It was also brought into the body more so the figure will fit into a tight interior tub, (the original arm is shown above).
The left glove will need to be removed and relocated to match the right side glove.
I'm just roughing these arms in right now, later they will be re-shaped with all new folds & wrinkles in the fabric.
A basic AMT Chevy II Funny Car seat is used to set the legs and torso to,
as it is probably the lowest seat available.
I'm also test fitting the legs & torso to other drag car seats as I'm going along with this Driver Figure.
1. Starting with the legs.... The legs were re-shaped to 1/25 scale and the hip socket was rounded out.
2. A helmet from a red plastic 2nd sprint car figure was used as the ball joint for the bottom of the torso.
3. The original torso had some detail that was removed (especially the neck brace), belly & sides of the body were puttied.
4. The left hand needed to be at a different angle, so it was cut off and a piano wire was used to help set the hand and to
make it stronger during casting. The ball and socket joints will make this figure fit into any seat !
Figure in a Chevy II Funny Car.
In all fairness, The steering wheel on the Chevy II is too low and should be raised.
But since this is such a shallow interior tub, it should fit even better on other interior tubs.
The left arm was pulled into the body more, so it will fit into tight interior door panels.
I thought it would be a great idea to have 2 different sets of arms.
One set of short arms to hold the steering wheel and another set of of extended long arms.
This will give about 10 different ways to make the figure and it would look different in each car you make.
* right extended long arm could hold the stick shift, or the steering wheel or be waving.
* left straight extended arm to hold the steering wheel, hanging on the door (like Wild Willy Borsh) and even waving.
There's many possibility's there !
Keep in mind this is still a work in progress, the finished figure will look much better.
To make the left extended arm be more poseable, the left hand needs to be knuckles up.
This way, the left arm could be holding the top of the steering wheel, hanging on the door or waving outside.
To fix this, 3- pieces of .080" plastic sheet was used to build up the under arm.
Here is the new left extended arm re-positioned with the hand "knuckles up" next to the right arm with the hand
in the side position. The same thing will need to be done to the right arm !
Extra length will be left on the back of the extended arms, as it will be needed for your personal arm position.
This MPC Blue Max head is a good starting point but,
the top of the goggles are hidden under the visor and I want to see the full goggles.
Besides that, if you were to paint the visor black and the goggles black,
there would be no separation between goggle and visor.
It will take (2) MPC Blue Max F/C driver heads to make a full goggle and have a separation between the
goggles and forehead. I'll need to cut out the face on one head to save the helmet, and cut up the helmet on the other head
to save the face. I'm keeping the visor on the helmet with the face and shaving the visor down to make the top of the goggles.
Here you can see the goggles are lower, the breathers, helmet sides and goggle straps have all been
cleaned up and are more pronounced. Also: a zipper guard has been added to the torso from .010 x .040" strip.
I'm thinking of using the chest of the Revell Don Prudhomme figure (shown here) for the face cowl ?
Well, The Prudomme figure for the cowl did not work out, so I decided to scratch build one out of .015" sheet.
To finish the head --- .010" rod was put between the 2 goggle lenses to give a separation between the lenses
and to help them to look more realistic.
The old goggle strap around the helmet was removed and a new strap (with cleaner lines for painting), was added using
.010 X .030" strip. The edging around the helmet was also cleaned up to be more pronounced.
The 2-piece cowl was made from .010" sheet (front & back sides) and shaped to the shoulders on the torso.
The underside of the cowl was filled in with putty by wrapping the torso tightly with saran wrap and fitting it to the torso.
Once the putty was dry the saran wrap was removed to have a perfectly shaped cowl to body.
I'm leaving a little bit of the chin, as you may want to remove the cowl and make the fire suit look like the cowl is tucked in
and the suit is zipped up.
I'm not extremely happy with the shape of the google lenses, but it would be too hard to make new ones and I don't think
the ends would justify the means.
Here's the figure in a Rat Packer Funny Car seat.
This seat is one of the lowest seats and has a tilted back.... and it fits !
Out of all the different style racing seats, these two seats are the most different in shape.
The figure fits them both with no effort. I literately just dropped them in the 2 seats.
Unlike the original Johan 14" Lemans mag wheels, These new Lemans mag wheels are being corrected into a
15" rim size, larger spokes, axle hub and separate inner rims and will fit most standard size and skinny front racing tires.
As you can see the (chrome) Johan Lemans mag wheels are smaller than a "Speed City Resin" American Racing
5 spoke 15" mags, as well as the spokes being too small.
Also: More importantly, the Johan mag wheels will not fit on standard tires as they were made to fit Johan promo style
After doing some research, it was determined that the spokes on the Lemans mag will need to be longer
to make the spokes look more like a natural 15" mag wheel.
The chrome was stripped from the Johan mags and the rim between the spokes were cut out.
(On the left)....A Speed City American 5 spoke mag wheel had the spokes removed.
(On the right)..... The leading edge of the rim was removed on the Johan mag to be able to fit into the new American trim ring,
and each spoke was sanded flat to match the original flat spot on the Lemans spokes.
The rim wasn't seating to the tire as it was curved and wanted to keep popping out of the tire.
Files were used to make a new lip and bring the mag closer to the tire. 010"x .080 plastic strip was added to the outside to
make the mag look more presentable and fit better. The Inner Rim was also cut to have a wheel lip and the same plastic strip
was added around the outside of the Inner Rim.
Master parts are finished !
Although the Johan spokes are a multi-colored plastic, they will look really nice once in white resin.
You can see how the original Johan Lemans mag falls through a Speed City Goodyear Blue Streak Skinny Front Tire,
but our new 15" American Lemans Mag Wheel and Inner Rim will now fit all standard tires.