"MODEL NEWS "
FOR A POLISHED ALUMINUM LOOK
* Always' clean resin parts to remove mold release *
Paint parts with MODEL MASTER Aluminum Plate Buffing Metalizer (now in rattle can) #1451
*Buff painted part with a Q-Tip*
( OR )
Use "RUST-OLEUM BRIGHT COAT METALLIC FINISH #7718 CHROME" spray paint.
Use this for all simulated aluminum on your model instead of aluminum paint for better results.
FOR A CHROME LOOK
Use Molotow Chrome 30 ml. refill bottle.
This can be poured into an air brush for the best chrome paint you've ever seen.
And doesn't rub off from handling like ALCLAD does.
From my experience... You should apply over bare plastic or resin..... No need to have a black undercoating.
No need to thin, just pour into air brush cup and spray a heavy coat !
(Thin with rubbing alcohol if needed)
TIPS ON BUILDING A RESIN MODEL
* Soak all resin parts
for 24 hours in CASTROL SUPER CLEAN, WESTLEY'S BLEACH WHITE or
EASY-OFF OVEN CLEANER (heavy duty), Scrub parts with an old tooth brush and rinse with soap & water.
* Use a good automotive primer before painting, we recommend using "Plasti-Coat" sandable primer.... It's the best !
* Spray your primer at night or when its cool to not get a rough texture as primer dries very quickly.
* Use "Super Glue" to glue all resin parts together....... even when gluing resin to plastic.
* We recommend using: Locktite Precision
Max or Professional
( the regular super glue has changed to a weak formula )
Use ALCLAD II LACQUER CHROME #ALC107 to air brush simulated chrome on Bumpers,
Taillights, Grills, Etc.
(Now available in a rattle can #ALC 5114)
* Use ALCLAD II LACQUER POLISHED ALUMINUM #ALC106 to airbrush Interior Tubs, Firewall's, Etc.
* To get a "polished aluminum" look without using an air brush....
Paint with MODEL MASTER Aluminum Plate Buffing Metalizer (now in rattle can) #1451 ......*No priming necessary *
* I've also had great results with CHROME SPRAY PAINT to get a polished aluminum look.
(You can handle the parts after they dry, but just don't rub on them or it will leave a smudged look).
Works great on Interior Tubs, Firewall's, Etc.
To have actual chrome plated parts, send parts to
CHROME TECH USA
* For window glass.... use .020 CLEAR or TINTED PLASTIC SHEET, found at hobby & craft stores.... see below for inst.
* To properly store your resin model: Remove all packing peanuts and disgard.
Clean all flash that prevents Interior Tub & Chassis from fitting into body.
Place Interior Tub & Chassis back into body so all parts fit together.
Do not store in areas that get hot as resin will warp.
HOW TO MAKE WINDOW GLASS FOR MODEL CARS
Place tape (with pencil lines) on .010 or .020 Clear Plastic Sheet, cut out tracing with scissors, remove tape,
place the clear window inside body. Use small drops of Super Glue (use a tooth pick) to set the window.
* Use Accelerator on separate tooth pick for faster dry time *
Then add a bead of Super Glue to all edges........ its that easy !
You may never go back to kit glass again !
HOW TO BUILD A FLIP NOSE FRONT END
Click on photo for larger printable Instructions.
HOW TO BUILD A STRAIGHT TUBE AXLE FRONT SUSPENSION
built a lot of altered wheel base cars, and
though some of them used a dropped tube axle found
in some kits, the most impossible to find, was a straight tube axle !
A lot of customers have emailed me and asked if I would cast one in resin ?
Well, here is the reasons why we don't, or cant cast them.
1. All cars have a different width, so a single tube axle would not fit all car bodies.
2. Depending on which mag wheel you use, it would alter the distance from the width (fender to fender).
3. The tie rods and spindles are too small & too thin.... and would break
In this article we will show you how to scratch build your own Straight Tube Axle....
Reading this article, it may sound difficult, but it's relatively easy once you've done it.
The "SLIDE BARS"
that come in these "Sliding bar report covers" found at Staples will
be used for the Spindles.
My wife bought these a long time ago, and asked me if I could use them......... could I ever !
(You may be able to purchase these individually) ?
Cut a piece off the "SLIDE BAR" about a 1/4" wide.
Now cut off the ends of the "SLIDER BAR", this will be used for the Spindles.
Drill pilot holes holes in the top & bottom and the center of the Spindle, then open it up with a 0.45" drill bit.
Round off the ends of the
spindle, this will help with its
Small flat head (assortment pack). These nails can be found in any hardware store.
The nail will be used for the spindle axle.
what mag wheel your using, measure how long the Nail should be cut.
Slip the "SLIDER BAR" (THE NEW SPINDLE) onto the straight tube axle.
Because the "Slider bar" has an angle to it, it will not come off when put on........ an added bonus!
Here's how everything looks so far.
You can see that the Straight tube axle is way too long.
You will need to measure as to how far you want the tires to set back in the wheel well.
Cut the tube in half, glue a paper clip in one end of the hollow straight tube
(this is why you need a hollow tube).
Now put the tires back on and make a new final measurement, mark on the hollow tube where your cuts should be.
Glue the other side of the paper clip in the other end of the straight tube axle, make sure that the spindles are even & straight.
I'm cutting the steering arms off a tie rod from the "PARTS BOX", although you can use whatever steering arms you want, or scratch build your own.
Drill 0.45" holes in
the ends of the steering arms.
Use the same 0.45" plastic rod for the Tie Rod.
Carefully & slowly bend the rod to make an L shape and heat it for a split second with a cigarette lighter and let it cool.
Set the spindles straight on the axle and mark where the other bend should be.
Use a cigarette lighter to melt the ends of the tie rod and flatten with the metal end
of the lighter.
(THIS NEEDS TO BE DONE FAST, AS YOU DONT WANT TO WARP THE STEERING ARMS)
I set mine on fire for a fraction of a second.
Or you can heat up a razor knife and melt the ends of the tie rods, let it cool with the razor knife still on the part and twist off.
Now were going to set
the ride height. This is the most challenging of the build....
but still fun !
Since this model has 1/4 elliptic springs, were going to set the height, by making shocks first.
(you may want to add your springs before adding shocks as it may be easier).
Place something under the chassis to hold up the front of the model, as to how high or low you want the front of the model to sit.
Mark on the frame, where to put the shock mounts, cut small pieces of plastic strip (hanging over the frame).
Glue the plastic strip to the frame, and drill 0.45" holes (for the shock ends to fit into).
If you can't find shocks that fit, you can make our own shocks.... Here's how.
Using the same 3/32" Tube from the straight axle, and 0.45" Steering Rod, start by using the 0.45" Rod, slide the rod through the holes on the shock mounts (on the frame) to meet the Straight Axle. Glue the 0.45 Rod to the axle.
Now remove the entire Tube Axle Suspension, add 3/32" tube to the middle of the 0.45" Rod (for the main shock unit),
creating new shocks.
Here's how your new front tube straight axle may look like before painting.
Its up to you, as to how much detail you want to put into it.
You can also add steering linkage using the same method.
IF YOU WANT ROLLING WHEELS
Put a ring of grease around the metal axle on the base of the spindle.
( don't get grease on the nail, or the glue wont stick )
Drop a small amount of super glue in the hole of the mag wheel,
apply mag wheel to axle and hold down nail head down for 60 seconds.
IF YOU DON'T WON'T ROLLING WHEELS
Super glue the mag wheel straight to the metal axle.
Here's the tube axle suspension method, used on some of our models.
I hope to have encouraged you with this fairly simple method of doing your own Straight Tube Axle.
always.......... Happy Modeling !
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