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"MODEL NEWS "

 

A new product that looks like real chrome !


These chrome ink pens are great for making small parts look like real chrome,
and can also be used for touching up sprue marks on chrome plated parts.
Chrome pens come in sizes- 1mm, 2mm & 4mm.


This 30 ml. refill bottle can be poured into an air brush for the best chrome paint you've ever seen.
And doesn't rub off from handling like ALCLAD does.
Click on image to get the refill bottle from Art-Primo (a distributor of Molowtow).


 

Whoopie Kat has made new corrected decals for the Speed City Resin MACH IV Mustang.

These new decals have been completely re-drawn with all new art work & lettering.


 

 

Looking for a correct color for your model ?
Check out PaintScratch.com
Just click on the logo !


Original vintage color's for all makes and models.... Comes in bottles and spray cans !

 


 

 

Unfortunately, Testors Model Master "Magnesium" Buffing Metalizer Lacquer Spray Paint has been discontinued !

This is sad news, as we now have to air brush everything for a few parts on our builds,
such as mag wheels, intake manifolds, timing covers, brake cylinders, steering units, etc.
What an inconvenience to do all that air brush set-up & clean-up for a only a few small parts.

To request this back into production, send email here.
http://www.rustoleum.com/pages/stand-alone-contact-us/contact-us-testors

Maybe if we all make some noise we will get it back?


 

TO GET A POLISHED ALUMINUM LOOK

* Always' clean resin parts to remove mold release *
Paint parts with MODEL MASTER Aluminum Plate Buffing Metalizer (now in rattle can) #1451
*Buff painted part with a Q-Tip*
( or ) use "RUST-OLEUM BRIGHT COAT METALLIC FINISH" spray paint.

TO GET A CHROME LOOK

Paint parts with ALCLAD II LACQUER (Now in rattle can) #ALC 5114
Apply a couple coats of gloss black lacquer ...... the glossier the paint, the better the chrome !
Spray Alclad until chrome is achieved, do not repeat.





 

TIPS ON BUILDING A RESIN MODEL

* Soak all resin parts for 24 hours in CASTROL SUPER CLEAN, WESTLEY'S BLEACH WHITE or
EASY-OFF OVEN CLEANER (heavy duty), Scrub parts with an old tooth brush and rinse with soap & water.

* Use a good automotive primer before painting, we recommend using "Plasti-Coat" sandable primer.... It's the best !

* Spray your primer at night or when its cool to not get a rough texture as primer dries very quickly.

* Use "Super Glue" to glue all resin parts together....... even when gluing resin to plastic.

* We recommend using: Locktite Precision Max or Professional Super Glue
( the regular super glue has changed to a weak formula )

* Use ALCLAD II LACQUER CHROME #ALC107 to air brush simulated chrome on Bumpers, Taillights, Grills, Etc.
(Now available in a rattle can #ALC 5114)

* Use ALCLAD II LACQUER POLISHED ALUMINUM #ALC106 to airbrush Interior Tubs, Firewall's, Etc.

* To get a "polished aluminum" look without using an air brush....
Paint with MODEL MASTER Aluminum Plate Buffing Metalizer (now in rattle can) #1451 ......*No priming necessary *

* I've also had great results with CHROME SPRAY PAINT to get a polished aluminum look.
(You can handle the parts after they dry, but just don't rub on them or it will leave a smudged look).
Works great on Interior Tubs, Firewall's, Etc.

* To have actual chrome plated parts, send parts to CHROME TECH USA

* For window glass.... use .020 CLEAR or TINTED PLASTIC SHEET, found at hobby & craft stores.... see below for inst.


 

HOW TO MAKE WINDOW GLASS FOR MODEL CARS

Use masking tape to cover window, then trace border of window with a pencil.

Place tape (with pencil lines) on .010 or .020 Clear Plastic Sheet, cut out tracing with scissors, remove tape,
place the clear window inside body. Use small drops of Super Glue (use a tooth pick) to set the window.
* Use Accelerator on separate tooth pick for faster dry time *
Then add a bead of Super Glue to all edges........ its that easy !

You may never go back to kit glass again !

If your hobby store doesn't carry Clear Plastic Sheet, go here to get it on line!


 

HOW TO BUILD A FLIP NOSE FRONT END

Click on photo for larger printable Instructions.


 

HOW TO BUILD A STRAIGHT TUBE AXLE FRONT SUSPENSION

I've built a lot of altered wheel base cars, and though some of them used a dropped tube axle found
in some kits, the most impossible to find, was a straight tube axle !

A lot of customers have emailed me and asked if I would cast one in resin ?
Well, here is the reasons why we don't, or cant cast them.

1. All cars have a different width, so a single tube axle would not fit all car bodies.

2. Depending on which mag wheel you use, it would alter the distance from the width (fender to fender).

3. The tie rods and spindles are too small & too thin.... and would break easily.

In this article we will show you how to scratch build your own Straight Tube Axle....
Reading this article, it may sound difficult, but it's relatively easy once you've done it.

Real 1/1 tube axle's are 3" tube, a 3/32" Plastruct Hollow Tubing is used to replicate that scale.
(we will show you why hollow tube works best later in this article).

0.45" Plastruct Round Rod is used for the spindle axles, drill holes through the main axle.
( This will be for the spindles to pivot on ).

This is how it should look when finished (notice the spindle axles are not even) it doesn't matter, because later the axle will be cut in half.

The "SLIDE BARS" that come in these "Sliding bar report covers" found at Staples will be used for the Spindles.
My wife bought these a long time ago, and asked me if I could use them......... could I ever !

(You may be able to purchase these individually) ?

Cut a piece off the "SLIDE BAR" about a 1/4" wide.

Now cut off the ends of the "SLIDER BAR", this will be used for the Spindles.

Drill pilot holes holes in the top & bottom and the center of the Spindle, then open it up with a 0.45" drill bit.

Round off the ends of the spindle, this will help with its rotation.
Small flat head (assortment pack). These nails can be found in any hardware store.

The nail will be used for the spindle axle.

Depending on what mag wheel your using, measure how long the Nail should be cut.
Slip the "SLIDER BAR" (THE NEW SPINDLE) onto the straight tube axle.
Because the "Slider bar" has an angle to it, it will not come off when put on........ an added bonus!

Here's how everything looks so far.

You can see that the Straight tube axle is way too long.
You will need to measure as to how far you want the tires to set back in the wheel well.

Cut the tube in half, glue a paper clip in one end of the hollow straight tube (this is why you need a hollow tube).
Now put the tires back on and make a new final measurement, mark on the hollow tube where your cuts should be.
Glue the other side of the paper clip in the other end of the straight tube axle, make sure that the spindles are even & straight.

I'm cutting the steering arms off a tie rod from the "PARTS BOX", although you can use whatever steering arms you want, or scratch build your own.

Drill 0.45" holes in the ends of the steering arms.
Use the same 0.45" plastic rod for the Tie Rod.
Carefully & slowly bend the rod to make an L shape and heat it for a split second with a cigarette lighter
and let it cool.

Set the spindles straight on the axle and mark where the other bend should be.

Use a cigarette lighter to melt the ends of the tie rod and flatten with the metal end of the lighter.
(THIS NEEDS TO BE DONE FAST, AS YOU DONT WANT TO WARP THE STEERING ARMS)
I set mine on fire for a fraction of a second.

Or you can heat up a razor knife and melt the ends of the tie rods, let it cool with the razor knife still on the part and twist off.

Now were going to set the ride height. This is the most challenging of the build.... but still fun !

Since this model has 1/4 elliptic springs, were going to set the height, by making shocks first.
(you may want to add your springs before adding shocks as it may be easier).
Place something under the chassis to hold up the front of the model, as to how high or low you want the front of the model to sit.
Mark on the frame, where to put the shock mounts, cut small pieces of plastic strip (hanging over the frame).
Glue the plastic strip to the frame, and drill 0.45" holes (for the shock ends to fit into).

If you can't find shocks that fit, you can make our own shocks.... Here's how.
Using the same 3/32" Tube from the straight axle, and 0.45" Steering Rod, start by using the 0.45" Rod, slide the rod through the holes on the shock mounts (on the frame) to meet the Straight Axle. Glue the 0.45 Rod to the axle.
Now remove the entire Tube Axle Suspension, add 3/32" tube to the middle of the 0.45" Rod
(for the main shock unit),
creating new shocks.

Here's how your new front tube straight axle may look like before painting.
Its up to you, as to how much detail you want to put into it.
You can also add steering linkage using the same method.


IF YOU WANT ROLLING WHEELS
Put a ring of grease around the metal axle on the base of the spindle.
( don't get grease on the nail, or the glue wont stick )

Drop a small amount of super glue in the hole of the mag wheel,
apply mag wheel to axle and hold down nail head down for 60 seconds.


IF YOU DON'T WON'T ROLLING WHEELS
Super glue the mag wheel straight to the metal axle.

 

Here's the tube axle suspension, used on some of our models.




I hope to have encouraged you with this fairly simple method of doing your own Straight Tube Axle.

As always.......... Happy Modeling !



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